The North Basin

Porstmouth, Virginia
N 36 50.299 W 76 17.785

Monday
Yesterday, we finished the Dismal Swamp canal yesterday in cold, rainy, weather. We got to the Elizabeth River between Norfolk and Portsmouth around 1300. Previously, our friend Andre recommended using the free dock at the Portsmouth South Basin. We decided to try it. The South Basin was crowded. There was a arts festival going on there. I looked up at the north basin and we spotted Bon Lass, the CSY 37 that belongs to Bob, a new friend we met in Elizabeth City. There was an empty spot behind Bon Lass, so we went in for it.

Portsmouth is a delightful city. We had no idea. It is very friendly, modern and clean. We walked around the downtown area and the arts festival and had a great time. When we got back to the boat, we invited Bob for dinner. That turned out to be a good decision.

Bob has been cruising on Bon Lass for 21 years. The CSY 37 is a truly classic sailboat. They are considerably larger inside than Westsails, and even more overbuilt (solidly built) than Westsails. In our former life we had chartered a CSY 44 in the BVIs once and a CSY 37 on another occasion. When CSY went out of business in the 1980s, there was a frenzy of yachtsmen to buy the used CSY boats. They are legends.

Bob is a very interesting fellow. He sailed Bon Lass single handed around the east coast and the Caribbean for more than 20 years. He even sailed her through Hurricane Hortense 100 miles off Puerto Rico. Bob said that all things considered he would rather see another hurricane, or to ride one out on shore, but doing it at sea was OK. The primary fear doing it at sea is colliding with another boat. If there are no other boats around an if one's vessel is sound, then the danger is much reduced. Bob said that he experienced a rush of exhilaration when the storm passed -- "I survived." I know what he means. I too have felt exhilarated after facing, and mastering, heavy weather or other great challenges.

Bob earns his living as a captain. He does boat deliveries and he was captain on a dinner cruise excursion boat in Long Island. He sure looks the part, and that the the second interesting part of the story. Bob claims to be 72 years old, but he looks to be no more than 40. He is handsome with a neatly trimmed beard. No trace of gray hair is visible. We saw Bob in the Dismal Swamp Canal lock without his shirt on. That way he looks to be only 30, with a triangle shaped body like Jack LaLane and a marbled belly. Bob should be a poster boy for the heath benefits of the cruising life. (Sorry ladies, our camera is broken so I can't take a picture of Bob.) Bob says that he loves being dressed in a captain's uniform with gold epaulets on his shoulder. I agree that he would readily be cast for the part of Captain of the cruise ship in any Hollywood production.

Bob says that when sailing offshore single handed that he stays awake all night and cat naps during the day. I wish I could do that. Cat napping something I have never been able to do. He also says that when hailing ships at sea on the VHF that he is persistent and, if necessary, rude on the radio until someone replies to his calls. He puts the blame on the ships who are required to have someone on the bridge who speaks English, but who often don't. If he is rude and insistent enough, they go wake up the English speaker. I'll have to try out his technique.

All in all, Libby and I were greatly entertained by Bob's stories. We surely hope to meet up with him some other time.

This morning a policeman came by and reminded us that overnight dockage was not allowed. He sounded apologetic for having to do it. He said that the real problem was boats that come and stay for weeks and months leaving their boats unattended. I told him that we are planning on leaving today.