Nothing Could Be Finer

The Great Dismal Swamp Welcome Center
N 36 30.39 W 076 21.34

Six thirty in the morning. We slipped the lines and backed out of the slip at Elizabeth City. The sun had just come up. The sky was clear and the air was totally still. The bird chirping was the loudest noise around.

We called to the bridge tender. "Elizabeth City Bridge, this is northbound sailing vessel Tarwathie requesting an opening." We had to wait more than a minute for a reply. Finally a sleepy voice answered, "Yes sir captain. I'll open it right up." I reved up the engine to 2000 RPM and we glided through the open bridge. After passing the bridge, I checked the GPS. Oops, our ETA at the south lock on the canal was 0930. The scheduled opening wasn't until 1100. Therefore, I backed off the engine
speed to 1000 RPM; nearly idle. No use getting there faster than necessary.

In the still water and still air, Tarwathie still made 4.5 knots. The spring scene was idyllic. The trees were decked out in fresh spring green. Osprey and geese flitted back and forth doing their morning errands. I suspect that these geese were laggards -- they missed the migration and would stay here all summer. I wondered if the Osprey were migrating or already in their summer home. We saw the Osprey in the Chesapeake in the summer and Osprey in Florida in the winter. The ones here are
potentially still migrating north for the summer.

Most of the Posquotank River is wild. It is rimmed with swamps. We could peer into the forest along the banks and see that the shore was indistinct. Water continued far under the tree cover making a true swamp. There are less than 20 houses lining the rbetween Elizabeth City and the Dismal Samp. They are very far apart. Some, but not all, are upscale. However, they all share one key thing. They have beautifully peaceful back yards facing the river. I expect that most of the residents have
small fishing boats that they can use to explore the river and the side channels and abandoned canal cuts that we see from time to time.

We passed through the railroad bridge. This swing bridge stands open unless a train is passing. The Rose Buddies told us that it is one of the last hand-cranked draw bridges left in America. Cool. There's a canal in Sweden where the boaters have to operate the locks themselves by hand cranks. That would be fun.

One spot is marked on the chart as Shipyard Point. They used to build ships there using the nearby native cedar and cypress trees. They sailed the ships down the river, out the sound to the ocean. Then they sailed them to England. When they got there they were broken up. The wood was more valuable than the ship. Those ships were built only good enough for a single one-way voyage.

I gave Libby the helm and then I went below and toasted myself a bagel. I took my bagel and coffee a good book and two cushions up to the foredeck. Then I just enjoyed the scenery and the nature. I spied a snake swimming across the river. He made an abrupt halt and looked around as Tarwathie's bow wave swept over him.

I couldn't help myself. The lyrics of the song kept going through my head. "Nothing could be finer than to be in Carolina in the morning." Soon, both Libby and I were singing it.

We didn't see a soul until 0800. Then we were overtaken by a fast power catamaran. As she passed us, the captain called on the VHF radio, "Sorry to disturb your tranquility," he said. Indeed.

I wondered why we're always in transit when passing the Posquotank River. We've never made it a destination. I think that it would be great to spend a week or so exploring the nooks and crannies of the Posquotank and to fish in the dinghy.

Eventually we got to the lock. We were still an hour early. We just spend the time enjoying the peace. By 1100 about 8 boats caught up with us. One of them was the CSY 37 that belongs to Bob. I met Bob two days ago on a park bench. He told me that he survived Hurricane Hortense in that boat 100 miles south of Puerto Rico. That made a very interesting story. Bob travels north every year. It takes him four days in the Gulf Stream to go from Palm Beach to Beaufort. Three days on the inside
to Norfolk, then three more days offshore to Fire Island. He moves fast.

At 11:00 the lock opened and we all went in. Just as things were ready to begin the cycle, a call came on the VHF radio. Three more sailboats were on the way but late in arrival. The lock tender agreed to wait for them. That took 20 minutes to get them in the lock. Then the gates failed to close. The lock master had to repair them before the cycle could start. We weren't out of the lock until 12:20; a record slow cycle. But, you know what, we didn't care a bit. We were in no hurry and we
made new friends chatting back and forth between the other boats in the lock.

Yes indeed, it was a fine fine morning to be in Carolina.