Friday, September 29, 2006

Scrabble At Sea


Sailboats make many people uncomfortable. That's especially true when the boat begins to heel over. It takes a long time to become accustomed to the feeling and confident that heeling is not related to tipping over.

As an example on the other extreme is the afternoon scrabble game we had with Diane and Carmello. We were somewhere out at see off the coast of New Jersey. We had a 15-20 knot headwind. We were close hauled, and Tarwathie heeled 20-30 degrees. Once in a while, a wave or a gust would put the rail under the water. Who would believe that in those conditions that four people would be playing Scrabble in the cockpit. It was great fun.

p.s. Special thanks to my sister Nancy and her husband Karl. The gave us a Travel Scrabble set as a present. It holds the pieces securely, even in conditions like this. Posted by Picasa

Wednesday, September 27, 2006

Detour Day

La Trappe Creek, MD N 38 37.903 W 76 07.216

This is our favorite anchorage in the whole Chesapeake. La Trappe Creek is idyllic, peaceful and beautiful. This is our 4th or 5th time stopping here this year. The creek branches off the Choptank River. The famous novel Chesapeake by James Michner is about this area along the Choptank.

We traveled 35 miles today but we're only 7 miles from Saint Michaels where we started. The answer to the riddle is that we had to navigate way out around the end of long peninsula, then back again. We got here 20 minutes after sunset.

When the sun did set I tried once again to see the famous green flash. No joy, I still haven't seen it despite hundreds of tries. My friend Steve Lambert said that he once saw the green flash. He's the only one I know who did. It's a good ambition in life to see the green flash at least once before I die.

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Tuesday, September 26, 2006

Saint Michaels

Miles River Yacht Club, St. Michaels MD

We're staying as guests of the yacht club. Very nice people and a fancy place, but it's not free for visiting members of other yacht clubs. We had to pay, same as at a marina.

We biked into Saint Michaels to buy groceries today. It's nice but too touristy for us. Cambridge Maryland is our next stop, we've been there before and we know that we like it.



The picture above shows Carmello down in the engine compartement in the middle of the ocean helping me to change the alternator belt.



The picture above was taken a few weeks ago. I'll leave it as an exercise to the reader to tell where I was.

Monday, September 25, 2006

Kent Narrows

Kent Narrows, Maryland, N 38 57.762 W 76 15.189

If only every day could be like this one. The winds were just the right speed and from just the right direction. We zoomed down the bay doing 6.8 knots made good against the current, and we never heeled more than 20 degrees. There were only scattered clouds and the temperature was in the mid 70s. Ah what a glorious day.

Our target for today was Saint Michaels. We're stopped for the night 11 miles short of that goal. If we had gotten up earlier this morning we could have made it.

Kent Narrows is at the west end of the Bay Bridge that goes over to Annapolis. It is also the site of a motel where Libby and I stayed during our shopping trip to look at 14 Westsails in early 2005. I can see the motel from here.

Coming in to the Kent Narrows we had a minor emergency. The channel in here is very narrow and it is bordered by two foot depth on either side. We approached the channel under sail, and just before we got there I went to start the engine so we could drop sails. It wouldn't start. Diesel engines are not like gas engines. They don't cough and sputter. They either start or they don't. This time it wouldn't. I was completely surprised. I had run the engine some just an hour ago. It was still warm. Fortunately we hadn't entered the channel. We swung off to the side of the entrance and hastily dropped the anchor.

While anchored, I tried to diagnose the problem. It sounded like no fuel. I suspected that we ran out of fuel on the starboard tank. The piece of plastic pipe I have in there for a sight gauge is becoming opaque and stained fuel color. It looked to me like the sight gauge was full of fuel, meaning more than 10 gallons left. I suspected that instead it might be totally empty instead and sucking air into the fuel lines.

To remedy that I would have to switch to the port fuel tank, and bleed the fuel lines. I switched tanks, loosened the bleed screw, and worked the manual fuel lift pump. Fuel came out. Next step was to loosen the fuel line at one of the injecors, then work the lift pump some more. No fuel came out. That's odd. What next? I replaced the fuel filter, but when I opened the top, I could see that it was full of fuel. It had not been sucking air from an empty tank.

I worked the lift pump more. No fuel to the injector. I cranked the engine. No fuel to the injector. What the heck? Where could the fuel go? It acted like the fuel flow was cut off at the throttle. What could cut off the fuel, how about the fuel cutoff valve? I traced the fuel cutoff control cable from the lever down to the throttle on the engine. Then I lied down flat on top of the engine and got Libby to work the fuel cutoff lever in and out until I could see motion. Sure enough, the cable would pull a lever to cut off fuel, but it would not push that lever back. Somehow, the cable had become detached from the lever. I couldn't fix it very easily. To see it I need my face four inches from the throttle and with my glasses I can't focus on anything that close. I'm blind.

Anyhow, we jury rigged it. We tied a string to the cutoff lever and ran the string forward to the cabin. Now we can stop the engine by pulling on the handle in the cockpit, and we can reset the cutoff by pulling on the string in the cabin. It worked; the engine started right up and we were able to continue our passage. Next time we have a whole day down I'll see if somehow I can to a proper repair.

I'm tempted to pat ourselves on the backs for being such clever diesel mechanics. On the other hand, my common sense tells me that this engine really needs to be pulled out of the boat and overhauled. It needs a new head gasket, and it needs new studs on the exhaust manifold, and it needs a persistent fuel leak on the anti-stall device fixed. An overhaul typically takes a couple of months. We don't have a time or a place in our cruising plans to be down for a couple of months. What to do?

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Sunday, September 24, 2006

Entertainment

Turner Creek, N 39 21.919 W 79 58.754

We're sitting at anchor today awaiting more favorable winds before continuing south. Tomorrow sounds promising.

A strong cold front just passed here an hour ago. It is the same front that caused tornadoes and deaths in Tennessee and the midwest, and that threatened the entire northeast as it passed today. We had lots of warning that it was coming, so we have a secure anchorage.

I sat under the dodger and saw it approaching by eye and by radar. There was no heavy rain near us but a wall of very low black clouds approached rapidly. I estimate that it was moving at 35 miles per hour. There was only one sailboat with sails up visible when the front passed, and a couple of power boats. Simultaneous with the passage, the wind shifted within seconds from SW 4 to W 30 and light rain started.

The most drama was provided by the boat caught with its sails up. It was a little sailboat, perhaps a 21 foot day sailor with no lifelines, no roller furling. There were two people on board, although the second person apparently stayed below until it was all over. They got hit with the powerful winds from behind and promptly rounded up into the wind and dropped the mainsail. After tying down the main, I thought that they were going to sail with the jib for a while but suddenly the job sheet seemed to break away and the sail flogged violently. I watched as the captain struggled on the wildly pitching forward deck to tame that jib sail. Meanwhile the boat was lying ahull with the wind on the beam making about 3 knots toward shore. That put a definite time limit on the captain completing his task before running ashore. I ached to be there to grab the tiller for him to turn her up into the wind, but alas, he was single handing it.

Meanwhile on the VHF radio we heard someone calling repeatedly for the Boat US Tow Boat. Their radio transmission sounded very close. They called again and again but there was no reply.

Back on the day sailor, eventually the captain got the jib secured, then he disappeared below and came back a few minutes later dressed in foul weather gear.

Then we heard a new call on the radio from the Coast Guard in Baltimore. "Pan pan. Pan pan. Pan pan. This is USCG Baltimore. At 14:12 local time we received notice of a sailboat overturned in the Severn River and of a man in the water. All vessels nearby are asked to render assistance."

Meanwhile, looking behind me I could see one of the power boats that was out there at the start. It now appeared about to crash onto rocks on the shore. It appeared to be right up on the beach and two men were on the forward deck struggling with something -- I thought it was an anchor.

Meanwhile, back on the sailboat, the captain was furiously trying to start the outboard motor. He tugged wildly on the starter cord, perhaps 15 or 20 times before stopping. I think he gave up because the boat didn't seem to move.

Meanwhile, back on the power boat, I could see that the thing that the two men were struggling with was a mooring buoy and that they succeeded to moor the boat. It was just an illusion that it appeared so close to the beach.

Meanwhile, back on the sailboat, the captain had managed to deploy the anchor and now their boat sat safely with the bow up into the wind. About the same time, the front finished passing. The winds subsided to 12 knots and the rain stopped.

Back on the beach, two men got out of the power boat and motored in. Standing on the beach were two women watching anxiously. The women were not dressed right for standing out in the wind and rain. I bet they saw their men in distress looking out the window of their house and ran out.

Finally, the sail boat was able to start their motor and raise the anchor. Now for the first time, the second person appeared. Before that I thought he was alone. I could not determine the gender of the second person. Within 10 minutes they had both sails raised again and continued on their journey.

We also heard on the radio that one vessel had picked up the man in the water in the Severn River and another vessel had the overturned sailboat in tow. The Coast Guard canceled the pan pan. If you're going to capsize and get thrown in the water, the Severn River is an excellent place to do it because there are so many other boats around to assist you.

Now you see what kind of entertainment I enjoy out here on the water.

How about a safety critique of the 21 foot sail boat captain? First of all, he successfully completed all the critical maneuvers. He saved his vessel from peril. He showed courage and skill spending so much time on the forward deck of that little boat with no lifelines to hold on to. I give him a solid B for a good performance. Praise notwithstanding, what could he have done better?

1) He could have seen the front coming and been prepared. However, it came on him from behind at 35 miles per hour. Even a vigilant skipper could have been taken by surprise by that so I'm reluctant to criticise him for his failure. A better criticism was that he should not have been out there at all, given the weather forecast.

2) His best option would have been to keep sailing. Especially after his mainsail was down, the boat could have sailed nicely downwind, well under control, using only the small jib. The advantage of that choice would have been that he could have remained in the cockpit and not risked his neck by going forward. I suspect that there might have been pressure from the other crew person below decks to stop sailing that affected his judgment.

3) Having decided to not sail, he should have deployed his anchor before securing the jib, or donning foul weather gear, or starting the motor. Once anchored he could have done the other things while pointing safely into the wind. On that small boat there was no place up in the bow to stow the anchor, so it would have to have been retrieved from the cabin. Nevertheless, he made the wrong choices for the priority of his actions.

That captain's plight makes me reflect on the safety advantages we have on larger boats like Tarwathie. A sudden 30 knot wind would not threaten to capsize us even with all sails up. We have secured stowage below decks so that if we suddenly heeled 60 degrees or more, most things would not start flying around causing panic. We also have lifelines and hand holds -- very important for anyone who needs to go forward. We also have the anchor stowed in the bow ready for rapid deployment. We also have a quick starting diesel engine and a sheltered cockpit where other crew members can assist via motor without fearing for their own safety. The only counter factor is that Tarwathie is our home, not just a toy, so we are as anxious for her well being in addition to concern for our own safety.

Our first sailboat was an O'Day 19 footer and our second one was a Clipper 26, we also owned a 12 footer and a 20 foot sailboat when we lived in Sweden. A lot of what we know about sailing was learned on those little boats. Often, one has to be more skilled and more courageous to handle a little boat than a big one.

Changing the subject, now it is sunset and we just saw an enormous flock of birds. They may have been starlings. We were amazed because we could see them from 2-3 miles away and there were so many that they blackened the sky. It looked like a locust attack. The flocks divided then came together again. Finally they formed a long sinuous tear shape formation and flew away north. As the shape of the formation changed it gave it the appearance of a liquid black wave undulating as it moved northward. Great sight.

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